What could be better than a fresh, homegrown, organic tomato—whether it’s freshly cut, canned, or made into a sauce? The rich, sun-kissed flavor of this juicy fruit makes tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) the holy grail for backyard gardeners! Start several varieties indoors about two months before the last frost. Once they’re in the garden, give them plenty of compost and keep them well-watered. Some cherry varieties, like those that grow on vines, are ready within two months or so after planting, while larger varieties can take up to three months to harvest.
Tomatoes are not just tasty; they’re good for you too. These fruits are a rich source of antioxidants and offer many amazing health benefits. They provide plenty of vitamins A, C, and K, along with other vitamins and minerals like folic acid, potassium, iron, and calcium. In other words, keep eating them (and growing them)!
Tomato plants have deep roots and don’t require as much water as most people think. They thrive much better in garden soil than in pots and need plenty of sunlight.
After the soil warms up in the spring, plant them in rich, well-draining soil that has been enriched with lots of garden compost, well-rotted animal manure, and organic calcium to prevent blossom-end rot.
Tip: Tomatoes are one of the few crops that can be grown in the same spot year after year. Research shows they prefer growing in compost made from their own leaves.
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Most home gardeners either buy seedlings or start their seeds indoors about 5-8 weeks before the last frost. Tomato plants prefer warm days and nights, so make sure not to plant them too early.
Allow enough space between the plants (1-1/2 to 3 feet) to ensure good sun exposure and air circulation. Plant tomatoes deep into the soil, up to the first set of leaves or even deeper. Roots will form along the stem. To encourage deep rooting, water deeply once or twice a week for a longer period. Once the plants are established, begin a bi-weekly fertilization program.
Tomatoes need support to keep the fruit off the ground. Cages will work without extra tying as they start to grow. But be careful—they often outgrow their cages in just a few weeks! At that point, use bamboo stakes or tree branches and tie the plants with twine or covered wire (see plant support and tying methods). Wrap the twine around a main stem and gently pull it toward the stake. Secure the tie.
Pruning young suckers between the main stem and leaf axils encourages higher yields and earlier fruiting. When the vines reach the top of the stake, pinch the tip to control growth.
Tomato plants that receive too much nitrogen-rich fertilizer may produce results, but none of them will be good. They might not flower at all, or they could drop their blossoms before the fruit sets. To prevent this, use an organic fertilizer with low nitrogen content or one specifically designed for tomatoes.
Once the plants start blooming, you may need to assist with pollination, especially if your crop is inside a greenhouse where there are no natural pollinators. To hand-pollinate, you’ll need a small brush to collect pollen from one flower and gently transfer it to another. Just tap the brush from flower to flower, pretending you’re a bee.
Once the tomato plants start to ripen, check the vines daily. While supporting the vine, either cut or gently twist off the fruits. For the best flavor, leave the fruits on the plants for as long as possible. At the first sign of a heavy frost, harvest all the fruits. If stored in a warm place out of direct sunlight, the green ones will eventually ripen. It takes 90-140 days for tomatoes to mature from seeds, and 60-90 days from planting, depending on the variety.
Contrary to common practice, it’s not recommended to store tomatoes in the fridge, as the cool temperature can cause them to lose flavor and become mealy.
Insect and Disease Problems Tomatoes are associated with numerous insect and disease problems (too many to list here). However, we’ve highlighted two common issues:
Tomato Hornworms Hornworms are impressive caterpillars that are surprisingly easy to control. They are identified by their large size (3-6 inches) and the spiked horn on their tail, but their green color makes them hard to spot among the leaves. To find tomato hornworms, simply follow the trail of chewed leaves. Then, look for their markings on the leaves. To control them, you can use diatomaceous earth as a dusting powder, pick them off by hand, or spray Bacillus thuringiensis for control. While all of these are organic remedies, please use safety gear when applying any pesticide.
Blossom End Rot Blossom end rot is a tomato disease typically caused by a calcium deficiency in the soil, though it can also result from drought, high salt levels, excess nitrogen, or uneven soil moisture. It’s identified by a smooth brown spot at the bottom of the fruit. To prevent blossom end rot, keep the soil evenly moist and spray the plants with kelp extract or liquid calcium as a foliar treatment.
Note: Organic bone meal, which contains 14% phosphate and up to 24% calcium, encourages healthy fruit development.
Seed Saving Instructions Cross-pollination among modern tomato varieties is rare, except for potato leaf varieties, which should be separated by the length of the garden. Avoid saving seeds from double fruits or the first fruits of larger varieties.
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